How to tell if a luxury watch is genuine

Start with the paper trail

A genuine watch usually has a story you can follow. The serial number and reference on the watch should match the papers where the papers give them, the papers should carry a date and the retailer's details that make sense for that watch, and the seller should be able to tell you where the watch has been.

A gap in the history is a reason to ask more questions.

What you can check in five minutes

None of these proves anything on its own, but a watch that fails one of them needs a much closer look before you go any further.

• Weight and feel. A genuine watch feels well made, with nothing rough at the edges. Steel, gold and platinum feel dense, while titanium and carbon are light by design, so weight alone proves little. The bracelet should move smoothly.
• Printing and finish. The text on the dial, the markers and the crown logo should be crisp and evenly spaced under a loupe.
• The date window. On a Rolex with a Cyclops lens over the date, collectors quote a magnification of two and a half times, so the date fills the window and looks sharp. A small or blurred date can mean a copy or a replaced crystal, so look closer.
• The seconds hand. Current Rolex mechanical movements beat 28,800 times an hour, or 36,000 in the newer Land-Dweller, so the seconds hand moves in very fine steps and looks like a sweep, not a jump every second.
• The engraving. On a Rolex made since about 2008, the ring around the inside of the dial is engraved with the brand name and, at six o'clock, the serial number. The engraving should be sharp and even.

What only a watchmaker can check

A watchmaker can open the case and look at the movement: its finishing, the calibre number, the numbers on the parts, and whether everything inside is correct for that reference. They can also test how accurately the watch keeps time and whether the case still keeps water out.

For a watch of real value, a check like this before you pay is normal, and a good seller will usually agree to it. At Montreal Watches you are welcome to have a watch checked by a third party before you pay.

Red flags in the deal

• A price far below the market for the same reference and condition.
• A seller who will not let you inspect the watch, have it checked, or see it in person or on a live video call.
• Photos that look like stock images, or that hide the serial number or the case back.
• Pressure to pay quickly, to pay everything in advance, or to pay a person rather than a business.
• Papers that do not match the watch.
• A seller with no shop, no address and no history you can check.

Why the seller matters most

Because copies can be convincing, the protection that counts is the seller's promise to stand behind the watch. Ask whether the dealer inspects every watch, whether they guarantee it is genuine and what that guarantee covers, and whether they will let a third party check it.

At Montreal Watches every piece is inspected before it goes in the safe and is guaranteed genuine. We are an independent dealer and not an authorised retailer of any brand. You can see any watch in person at our shop in the Gold Souk, Al Daghaya, in Deira, or we send photos and video of the exact piece, serial number included.