Model guides4 min read
Rolex Datejust guide: sizes, bezels, bracelets and what to check
For many people the Datejust is the classic Rolex. Rolex launched it in 1945, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of its foundation, and describes it as the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to show the date in a window at 3 o'clock on the dial.
It comes in several sizes, bezels, bracelets and metals, and that choice is what makes one Datejust a different watch from another. This guide explains each in plain words, then what to check when you buy a pre-owned one.
By the Montreal Watches teamUpdated 18 October 2026
Sizes: 31, 36 and 41 mm
Rolex's current Datejust range is made in three case sizes: 31, 36 and 41 mm. The smaller 28 mm watch is sold as the Lady-Datejust, a collection of its own.
The 36 mm is the classic size and the 41 mm is the larger watch. The 41 mm began as the Datejust II in 2009 and was replaced in 2016 by the Datejust 41, which has new references and a new movement. If a listing says Datejust II, it is the earlier watch.
Reading the reference
A Datejust reference tells you the size, the metal and the bezel, and the dial and the bracelet vary within a reference. Rolex's current numbers begin 1262 for the 36 mm, 1263 for the 41 mm, 278 for the 31 mm and 279 for the Lady-Datejust, and each combination of metal and bezel has its own reference.
For example, 126200 and 126300 are both Oystersteel, in 36 and 41 mm. The 126234 is a 36 mm in Oystersteel and white gold with a fluted bezel, and the 126334 is a 41 mm in Oystersteel and white gold with a fluted bezel.
Bezels: smooth, domed and fluted
Rolex describes the Datejust bezel as smooth, domed, fluted or gem-set. The fluted bezel, with its grooves, is made of gold or platinum and not of steel.
Rolex says the fluted bezel was first made to screw tightly onto the case, and that since 1953 it has been fixed by friction-fitting.
Bracelets: Oyster, Jubilee and President
The Oyster bracelet has three-piece links. The Jubilee has five-piece links; it was made for the Datejust at its launch in 1945, when the watch was made only in gold. The President has semicircular three-piece links and was unveiled in 1956 with the Day-Date. Rolex reserves it for the Day-Date and for Datejust watches in precious metal.
Metals: Oystersteel and Rolesor
Oystersteel is Rolex's name for its 904L steel, which Rolex says has been produced for it since 1985. Rolesor is Oystersteel combined with 18 ct gold, named by the shade of the gold: Yellow, White or Everose Rolesor. Rolex says Rolesor was developed in the 1930s.
The movement
The current 36 and 41 mm watches use calibre 3235, which Rolex developed and makes itself. Rolex gives its power reserve as approximately 70 hours, and its accuracy as no more than two seconds fast or slow a day once cased. It reached the Datejust 41 in 2016 and the Datejust 36 in 2018. The 31 mm uses calibre 2236, with a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
What to check when you buy one
- The date window. The Cyclops lens over the date should be clear, and the date should change cleanly.
- The bezel. On a fluted bezel, look at the grooves for wear and at the edge for dents. Gold is a soft metal, and polishing and knocks show on it.
- The bracelet. Check for stretch and look at the clasp. A Jubilee or an Oyster that has stretched will feel loose.
- The dial. A reference comes with many dials, so ask whether the dial is original and has never been refinished or replaced.
- The combination. The bezel should agree with the reference: a fluted bezel on a current watch is gold or platinum, not steel.
- The papers. The date on the warranty card should show when the watch was first sold, and the reference should match the watch.
Our guide to buying a pre-owned Rolex goes through the other checks, and our guide to box, papers and condition explains how we describe a watch.
117 Rolex Datejust watches are in our safe now, from AED 30,450 to AED 165,850. Prices exclude duties.
In stock now
Rolex Datejust 36 (Mother-of-Pearl Diamond, Jubilee)
Ref. 126231
AED 82,450· $22,450
Rolex Datejust 31 (Grey Diamond, Jubilee)
Ref. 278273
AED 75,100· $20,450
Rolex Datejust 41 (Wimbledon, Jubilee)
Ref. 126334
AED 63,550· $17,300
Rolex Datejust 31 (Silver Diamond, Jubilee)
Ref. 278271
AED 73,000· $19,900
Rolex Datejust 41 (Blue Diamond, Jubilee)
Ref. 126334
AED 67,750· $18,450
Rolex Datejust 41 (Green, Oyster)
Ref. 126300
AED 44,650· $12,150
Rolex Datejust 36 (Blue Diamond, Jubilee)
Ref. 126234
AED 56,200· $15,300
Rolex Datejust 41 (Green Ombré, Jubilee)
Ref. 126300
AED 51,450· $14,000
All Rolex Datejust in stockQuestions we are asked
Should I choose the 36 mm or the 41 mm?
The 36 mm is the classic size and the 41 mm is the larger watch. Try both if you can, because the same dial looks different at each size. If you are not sure, message us on WhatsApp and we will tell you which we have in stock.
What is the difference between Oystersteel and Rolesor?
Oystersteel is Rolex's steel. Rolesor is Oystersteel combined with 18 ct gold, named by the shade of the gold: Yellow, White or Everose.
What is a Jubilee bracelet?
A Rolex bracelet with five-piece links, made for the Datejust when it was launched in 1945. The other bracelets on the Datejust are the Oyster, with three-piece links, and the President, which Rolex reserves for precious-metal Datejust watches and the Day-Date.
Is the Datejust II the same as the Datejust 41?
No. The Datejust II was a 41 mm model launched in 2009. The Datejust 41 replaced it in 2016, with new references and a new movement.
How long does a Datejust run when fully wound?
Rolex gives approximately 70 hours for the current 36 and 41 mm watches (calibre 3235) and approximately 55 hours for the 31 mm (calibre 2236). Earlier watches, such as the Datejust II, have a shorter reserve, so check the figure for the exact watch.
What to do next
Tell us the reference, the size and the budget you have in mind and we will tell you what is in the safe and what we can find.
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