Audemars Piguet Royal Oak guide: references and what to check

What makes a Royal Oak

AP's own description of the 1972 design names a tonneau-shaped case, a large octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws, an integrated steel bracelet and a guilloché Tapisserie dial. The Tapisserie pattern of small pyramids has come in three scales: the Petite Tapisserie of 1972, the Grande Tapisserie from 1999, whose pyramid bases AP says are up to twice as large, and the Mega Tapisserie, first used on the Offshore.

The 39 mm Jumbo

The thin 39 mm Royal Oak is known as the Jumbo. The 15202, 39 mm across and 8.1 mm thick with calibre 2121, was followed by the 16202, introduced in January 2022 for the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary, with the new calibre 7121. AP's chief executive announced the end of the 15202 in spring 2021.

The 41 mm references

The Royal Oak Selfwinding came in 39 mm as the 15300 in 2005, with calibre 3120, then in 41 mm: the 15400 in 2012, also with calibre 3120, the 15500 in January 2019 with calibre 4302, and the 15510 in 2022, also with calibre 4302. The power reserve is about 60 hours for calibre 3120 and about 70 for calibre 4302.

AP describes the 15510 as an ergonomic design evolution, with larger polished chamfers and trapezoid first links.

Reading an AP reference

A full AP reference reads in blocks, as AP explains in its own guide to its numbering. Take 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01: 15500 is the model, ST the case material, OO the standard finish, 1220 the bracelet reference with its material, ST, and 01 the dial.

The main letters for the case metal include ST for steel, BA for yellow gold, BC for white gold, OR for pink gold, PT for platinum, TI for titanium, CE for black ceramic and CB for white ceramic. AP uses many more, including two-metal codes such as SA for steel and yellow gold. AP says the model number is very rarely engraved on the watch, so ask for the papers.

Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore

The Royal Oak Offshore is a different watch. Emmanuel Gueit designed it and AP presented it at the Basel Fair in April 1993. Its first reference, 25721, was 42 mm.

What to check when you buy one

• The finishing. The Royal Oak alternates brushed and polished surfaces. Polishing blurs the contrast between them and softens the chamfers and the corners of the bezel, so look closely at the edges.
• The bezel screws. The eight hexagonal screws should all be present.
• The dial. The Tapisserie pattern should be crisp and even, with no worn or filled squares.
• The bracelet. The bracelet is part of the design: check it for stretch, look at how the first links fit the case, and look at the clasp for wear.
• The reference and the year. Match them: a 16202 dates from 2022 or later, and so does a 15510.
• The papers. Ask for the box and papers and check that the reference matches the watch.

Our guide to telling a genuine watch from a copy covers what no single test can prove, and our guide to box, papers and condition explains how we describe a watch.